In 1998 I bought my first Rohloff hub.
We are now one of the biggest clients of Rohloff and a real Rohloff specialist. We have touring bikes, trekking bikes, commuter bikes, mountain bikes and also a racing bike with the Rohloff hub.
Most models are available with a chain or belt drive.
This is what it looks like on the inside. Luckily you only have to change the oil once every 5000kms. Then you can ride 100,000 km with it.
Indestructible
I am often asked what the best components are. If you ask me to list my top three best bike parts in existence then I come to this list (in no particular order): Chris King headsets, Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes and the Rohloff Speedhub 14 gear hub. All three are indestructible (do not take this too literally).
I have been riding with Rohloff hubs since 1997 - my first hub (with serial number 623) is still in use in my tandem. There is also one in my mountain bike, one in my S.U.B., and one in ... uhhh. In any case I have gained a lot of experience with it.
We have a wide assortment of bikes with the Rohloff drive. In our showroom are displayed more than 20 bikes with this hub - touring bikes, mountain bikes, recreational bikes, the trendy S.U.B. and even several tandems. So come and visit us if you are looking for a bike with a Rohloff hub – the showroom is open every Friday afternoon, and I am also there. I can tell you everything about Santos bikes and Rohloff hubs.
Rohloff / Belt Drive
Get rid of the chain, give me a belt!
In recent times I have been asked many questions about belt drives on our Santos bikes with the Rohloff hub. I myself have been using this combination since September 2008 and I am assisting in the ongoing development (I have been asked by the suppliers to support them in developing their products).
The belt-drive system is lighter, faster and cleaner. Curious?
Click here to find more info on belt drive.
Meanwhile, almost 100,000 hubs left the factory in Kassel (as at the end of 2008). The minimal maintenance and long lifespan are most often the reasons for choosing this drive. And I know from experience that the hub is still not worn out at 100.000km!
In recent years, the Rohloff hub has become more and more popular with both leisure cyclists and mountain bikers, and with weekly work commuters as well as recreational weekend riders. I get a lot of questions about it, and I have more than 10 years experience with Rohloff hubs - therefore these comments.
In the following paragraphs I will tell you about:
(You can click on the topic of your choice to go there directly.)
- Get rid of that chain! A belt drive on your Rohloff bike (new added)
- Benefits
- Disadvantages
- Price comparison of the derailleur system and the Rohloff system
- The Different models
- The lifespan and maintenance requirements of the Rohloff hub
- Rohloff for the advanced rider: more info, tips and tricks
Benefits
The Rohloff speedhub has 14 gears built into the rear wheel. The range of the 14 gears is similar to that of a bike with three front sprockets and a 9 speed (rear) cassette.
Low maintenance
The big advantage is that this hub is virtually maintenance free. Unlike a conventional derailleur system, the chain runs straight and is therefore less subject to wear. The Rohloff hub requires maintenance every 5,000 km.
Ease of gear-changing
With the rotary switch on the right handlebar, you can switch without having to worry about the chain being out of place. Moreover, it turns quickly and you do not have to wait until the chain is on another sprocket.
Sturdy
A Rohloff is particularly ideal for bike holiday enthusiasts. After most bike holidays the cyclist takes his bike with him on the plane, and that's where something inevitable goes wrong. A Rohloff is a sturdier than a rear derailleur and is almost impossible to damage. A Rohloff hub cannot buckle or bend.
No big steps
You know the feeling well - you want to pedal a little more easily, but when you shift gears you find yourself suddenly pedalling way too fast and lightly. Or you want to pedal just a little harder, but that one gear heavier is just too hard. I have noticed that the steps between gears in a Rohloff hub are closer together than those on a standard cassette. In flat landscapes it is very nice to be able to pedal a little lighter or a little harder.
Shifting down gears while at a standstill
A Rohloff hub is especially easily to use on a tandem. If you are standing still and you want to take off on a tandem, it is a question of counting down and taking off in unison. If you have not geared down and it's going to be heavy pedalling, then it's going to be very difficult. With a Rohloff hub, you can gear down while you are at a standstill.
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Disadvantages
Running it in
A Rohloff hub needs to be run in - in the first 1000 km it will make more noise in the 1st to the 7th gears, and gear changes will be less supple. If you are very light and you ride slowly then it could take 2000 km to run it in.
If you change gears a lot between the 3rd and 5th gears then all the gearwheels turn. Switching between the 8th and 7th gears is a little awkward in the beginning. Even after you have run the hub in, you will need to hold back a little when changing from the 8th to the 7th gear. Rohloff has specially designed it this way.
Regarding the noise, Rohloff hubs beginning from around serial number 47,000 make less noise.
From 8 to 7: holding back
Actually, the Rohloff hub gear is a seven speed hub with seven "reduction" gears. In position 7 the hub is in the highest gear with the lowest transformation ratio. In position 8, the hub is in the lowest gear with the highest transformation ratio.
So if you change from 7 to 8, the 'planets' must first move to the lowest gear and only then to the highest transformation ratio. This is therefore two steps at once. So you really need to hold back in power, or it will jump into the 14th gear (very heavy). Changing from 8 means you are only shifting gears and so it is one step each time. I hope I have explained this well. If you know a better way, can you let me know?
All other gears can be switched between under full power. After running it in you will be able to enjoy the silence, especially between gears 8 to 14. The 8th to 14th gears are also the most efficient positions. The 11th gear is the quietest and most efficient and is called the 'direct drive'. For some people (ornithologists) the sound is a big drawback.
Price
Another disadvantage is the price. A bike with a Rohloff hub costs approximately 900 Euros more than a good bike using a derailleur. But in the long run it appears that this high purchase price is justifiable. The 'cheapest' Rohloff bike costs just fewer than two thousand Euros. However, if you are purchasing a bike that has been designed according to your wishes, it is more likely to be around three thousand.
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Price derailleur system versus system Rohloff
A Rohloff hub is heavier to run than a clean (!) XT derailleur system. However, it is somewhat lighter if you are too lazy to occasionally clean your chain. It also weighs more. In the long run a Rohloff hub is more advantageous.
I have, for my own pleasure, made some calculations that I caution you to take with a grain of salt. Let's do the maths together, basing our figures on 60,000 km of riding. Then here, very roughly, are the costs:
Rohloff-hub
| Part | Price (Euro) |
|---|---|
| Surcharge hub |
800,- |
| 6 x new chain |
120,- |
| 6 x oil change |
108,- |
| 1 x rear sprocket |
50,- |
| 1 x front sprocket |
60,- |
| 1 x new cables |
20,- |
| Total |
1.158,- |
XT Derailleur System
| Part | Price (Euro) |
|---|---|
| New chain at 4,000 km |
300,- |
| New cassette at 8000 km |
525,- |
| 2 x new front sprockets |
200,- |
| 3 x new cables |
60,- |
| New derailleurs + gears |
390,- |
| Total | 1.475,- |
I am then assuming that you do everything yourself, otherwise there also be labouring hours to take into consideration. So if you have your mechanic doing the maintenance, then it will cost more money. Financially speaking, the break-even point is somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 km. And then after 40,000 km a Rohloff hub will still be functioning well for a few years longer.
Another advantage is that I feel that the steps between gears are closer together than with a standard Shimano cassette. If you are cycling in a flat area the smaller gap is very efficient and satisfying. You can also cycle up a mountain without problems with a Rohloff hub. If you really have no leg strength left, you can move it to a larger sprocket.
...Terug naar boven ^^
Formerly the red hub was painted, and after some time this peeled off. These days the red hub is anodized and laser cut. As a result, it stays beautiful and there is no longer a sticker on it.
In the photo it is pictured with the external shifting mechanism (which is also known as the shiftbox).
The black anodized hub is also laser cut.
The hub in this picture is one with the internal shifting mechanism, which changes gear faster. In addition, when you need to get the wheel on or off (to change a flat tire), your rotary shifter will be in the correct position (it happens automatically).
The silver hub is not anodized (it is laser cut and therefore has no sticker). If you are a polisher then you will love this. If you do not like polishing, then the silver will oxidise. In other words, it becomes dull. The hub will still function properly, but it will look less attractive.
The different models
Internally, each Rohloff hub is exactly the same - the differences are external. Apart from the three colours silver, red and black, the various models have differences regarding:
- The way of shifting gears
- The way the chain is tightened
- Responding to the counterforce
- Spoke thickness and the mounting of the disc brakes
The way of shifting gears.
You control the hub with a very solid grip shift handle. The cables run to the back and end at the gear mechanism. Should you spring a cable you can always use an 8 wrench to put it into any gear you want. It is recommended that you change the cables after every 10,000 to 20,000kms. There are two types of gear mechanisms - the cables are easy to get loose with both systems, so you can get your rear wheel out.
Internally, each Rohloff hub is exactly the same - the differences are external. Apart from the three colours silver, red and black, the various models have differences regarding:
- The way of shifting gears
- The way the chain is tightened
- Responding to the counterforce
- Spoke thickness and the mounting of the disc brakes
The way of shifting gears.
You control the hub with a very solid grip shift handle. The cables run to the back and end at the gear mechanism. Should you spring a cable you can always use an 8 wrench to put it into any gear you want. It is recommended that you change the cables after every 10,000 to 20,000kms. There are two types of gear mechanisms - the cables are easy to get loose with both systems, so you can get your rear wheel out.
Internal shifting mechanism. This is integrated into the hub. The two cables run from the handlebars to a type of wire connector with a bayonet clasp. This is held tightly in another clasp that you can detach with one move. The other clasp is joined to a 0.9 mm cable which goes to the internal mechanism that sits at the axis of the Rohloff.
The advantage of the internal shifting mechanism is that when you are detaching or securing parts, it does not matter if you shift gears on the handlebars. It will seek its 1st and 14th position by itself.
The disadvantage is that the 0.9 mm cable is difficult to replace - especially if you are impatient.
External shifting mechanism (shift box). This is a black box that sits above the axis. The cable from the handlebars goes directly to this shift box. The advantage is that this box is very easy to get loose and that the entire cable is sealed. In addition, you can also use a regular derailleur cable that runs through a brake cable.
The disadvantage is that if you shift gears while the black box is slack, it springs the system; so for example you may still be able to shift from 1 to 12, but you may no longer be able to get to 13 and 14. Moreover, this is a more expensive system.
The way the chain is tightened
There are three ways to keep tension on the chain, depending on the frame:
Chain tensioner: This looks like a rear derailleur, although it is much stiffer.
The advantage is that you never have to worry that the chain is hanging too slack - and that is a big advantage because you never need to look. This system can be mounted on almost any bicycle. If you want to convert your bike, then it will cost a lot of money, and you would be better off buying a new bike.
The disadvantage of the chain tensioner is that you then have another thing hanging around your back wheel.
Eccentric bottom brackets. With specially crafted frames a bottom bracket can be placed off-centre. This is called an eccentric bottom bracket. By rotating the bottom bracket a bit you adjust the chain tension.
The advantage is that the chain line looks straight, and that you can mount a chain glider (which is very strong and not expensive) because there is no need for an external chain tension mechanism. It's a pity that it makes a little noise, but the Rohloff hub does that also :-)
The disadvantage of an eccentric bottom bracket is that you need tools to set the chain tension. For this you will need an Allen key. The first time you will need to do this is after roughly 500 km, then after approximately every 1,000 km, depending how forcefully you ride.
Rear dropouts. Just as you tension a chain on a simple utility bike, so it can sometimes also be done on a bike with a Rohloff hub. On a utility bike you need a chain tensioner that pulls the wheel back slightly. When using a Rohloff hub, the chain tensioner is replaced with sturdy Allen screws at the back of the frame which hold the wheel in place. Sometimes these dropouts are incorporate in a specially designed frame, and sometimes you can use loose dropouts on a 'standard' frame.
Counterforce
(This piece is not that interesting and does not add that much to your knowledge.) When you shift gears, there must be a counterforce exerted. Compare this with a pushing on a heavy crate when you are on roller-skates. If you push, the crate will not move, but you will push yourself back. You need to have an opposing force before you can push the crate forward. The same holds true for gear shifting with a Rohloff hub. To create the counterforce, there are three options:
Long arm. The long arm extends from the bottom bracket to the rear fork and is about 20cm long. It is attached to a block on the frame with a snap lock. The advantage is that this long arm fits any bike. The disadvantage is that such a long arm doesn't look that pretty.
Short arm with a cam. This looks like the above-mentioned short arm, although there is a tab in the slot of the rear hanger, which takes care of the counterforce.
Spoke thickness and disc brakes
There is a special tandem version which is always used by Santos. This hub allows you to insert spokes that are slightly thicker than normal spokes - the holes in the flange are slightly larger. And by the way, a Rohloff hub has only got 32 spokes. Because the wheel is symmetrically spoked, it is at least as strong as a 48-spoke wheel with a cassette, which is 'umbrella' spoked.
Tip for world cyclists: You have behind you a 32-hole rim; eventually aim to mount a 32-hole rim in front of you as well. That way, if you have a problem with your rear wheel, you can alternate your rims during the journey.
Rohloff hubs can also be used for a disc brake. It just means having a different side plate where the disc can be mounted. This has no disadvantages for the Rohloff hub, but Santos does not (yet) offer any bikes with a Rohloff hub and disc brakes..
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How long does a Rohloff hub last and what about maintenance?
In 2008 Rohloff said they did not exactly know. A German has so far driven more than 160,000 km with it. Based on my experience, I would dare to guarantee that the hub will do 75.000km. This is the guarantee I stand by now, which rises every year due to my continuing experience.
Flat tyre?
Then it is easy if you can get the rear wheel out of the frame without any tools. A Santos with a Rohloff hub makes this possible.
What is a good resistance?
Usually a resistance of 38 front, 16 rear is used. This is comparable to the light resistance of 34 rear and 22 front. All the way to the heavy resistance of 12 rear and 42 front. (Therefore 22-32-42 triple and a 12-34 cassette). So with this you can certainly ride lightly on a mountain bike. If you do not like the resistance then later you can replace your rear sprocket with another.
User Guides
Check the Rohloff website for online videos on maintenance and operation
Every Friday afternoon I am in our showroom and I can tell you everything about the Rohloff hub. You are very welcome to drop in. The cappuccino and M&M's are ready.
Robbert Rutgrink
Santos Bikes
Thanks to Eric Schuit for his contribution to this text. Eric is an enthusiastic Santos dealer who himself rides with a Rohloff hub.
Copyright Eric Schuit and Robbert Rutgrink
_____________________________________________________________________
More information on Rohloff
Rohloff for the advanced
For everyone who has read everything written above and is still hungry for more - further information about Rohloff. Hey, maybe you know more about Rohloff than Eric and me? Please let me know so I can accommodate it.
In the following paragraphs I will tell you about:
(You can click on the topic of your choice to go there directly.)
- practical tips
- maintenance
- facts
- modifications
Completely filled with gears, bearings and ratchets.
Tips
Gear shifting and pedalling. A Rohloff hub always shifts. Whether you are standing still, or pedalling forwards or backwards. In order to shift perfectly and smoothly, I recommend you learn the following: change gears when the pedal is in lowest position. Whether it is left or right does not matter - So just pedal normally and change gears when your foot is all the way at the bottom.
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Maintenance
You can download the maintenance pages from the Rohloff manual as a PDF. Here are some more valuable facts:
- Eccentric bottom bracket
To keep the chain tension, you need to tighten it. In practice you do around every 1,000 km. We recommend taking a long Allen screw and inserting it in the left or the right hole of the bracket. Using the crank arm (the stalk that the pedals are on) you can then rotate the bottom bracket. You are therefore using the crank as a lever.
- Eccentric bottom bracket with belt drive
Tightening a belt is not necessary - this is tensioned during assembly. Because the belt does not stretch, you will not have to worry about looking at it from then on.
- Rear dropouts
With rear dropouts (not at Santos, as we use only brackets), you do not have to worry about the chain tension. If you notice that the chain sometimes slips, put a drop of oil on the moving part of the chain tensioner. Probably it is stuck as a result of built up dirt. The chain can also jump off if it is worn, but that's another story.
- Flushing
Every 5000 km or once a year you need to have the hub flushed and new oil (25 ml) put in it. This flushing is especially important the first time, because then the swarf is removed. After that you need to repeat it every 5000 km, but if you do it after 10,000 km, it will also be OK. Flushing takes time, but you can easily do it yourself. Above is pictured the set that you need for this.
If you are going to cycle at the North Pole, you can dilute the oil slightly.
- Rear sprocket
At about 5000 km, you can turn the sprocket around so that it wears evenly. However, you will need special tools and only the sprockets with 15, 16 and 17 teeth are double-sided. Mostly 16 are used. You also have a 13 sprocket but this is not easily adjustable. And nowadays there is also a 22 sprocket.
When you have the cog loose, add a little graphite powder and then assembly paste (or bearing grease on my part). Even for us it is sometimes very difficult to loosen the sprocket, because it really is well-secured.
- Cables
With the external gear shifting mechanism you will need a regular derailleur cable. This would need to be renewed every 20,000kms as a precaution.
Regarding the internal gear shifting mechanism, in addition to a regular derailleur cable you will also require a 0.9 m cable. This needs to be replaced every 15,000kms or so.
If your cable is broken and you have no spare one, you can use an 8 spanner to set the hub in any gear you want.
At Santos, during the assembly we use Shimano shackle inner cables and Shimano brake cables outside. This works better for us than the standard cables Rohloff supplies
- Leaking oil?
In principle, a wheel with a Rohloff hub should be transported standing up. If you are travelling with your bike on the plane, then put some old underpants (no G-strings) to the left and right of the hub. This will prevent any leaking oil from getting into your gear. Now you ask yourself, "Is it bad if a little oil leaks?" No! Even if all the oil runs out, you can still safely keep cycling for a year. There is still enough oil in the hub to keep it lubricated. In Chile, Eric once met a Swiss man who was distraught because all his oil had run out - he reassured him. Moreover, the ability to keep riding without oil is an official Rohloff position. So, your warranty will not be in jeopardy :-)
- Problems with the hub
If you have a problem with the hub (of the hundreds of hubs we have sold, I have only experienced this a couple of times), then you can return it to our dealership - of course, that is only if you bought it from there. They will organise all further handling – remember to take your warranty card with you.
Veeeery occasionally the hub may jump into a 'heavy gear' when performing a gear change - do not panic. Remove the quick release button and take the wheel out of the bike. Give a brief firm tap with a hammer on one side of the bracket and then a firm tap on the other side. Then the latches will pop back into places and you can cycle on for tens of thousands of kilometres.
- Flat tyre?
Then it is easy if you can get the rear wheel out of the frame without needing any tools. With a Santos with a Rohloff hub that is possible - this is not possible with all other brands..
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Facts
- Lock your bike with a Rohloff hub properly. Otherwise, they can just cut the hub off your wheel. If you are afraid they will recognise your expensive bike by the Rohloff hub, then put tape over the Rohloff sticker. Leave the sticker on the hub, as the serial number is recorded there by Rohloff. The new hubs have a laser engraved serial number and no longer use the sticker. In Germany there is a list of stolen hubs that are on the market.
You can also detach the sticker and stick it on an A-4 page and keep it with your warranty.
- Download de complete Nederlandstalige handleiding
- Download de onderhoudshandleiding
- bekijk onderhouds en montage filmpjes op de Rohloff website
- You can also insert a Rohloff hand grip on a racing bike. You will need to have special handlebars. Apart from this solution, we can put a sort of stick on the handlebars and mount the Rohloff grip there.
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Modifications
Below is an incomplete list of modifications that Rohloff has performed over the years.
|
Date |
From |
Modification |
|
October |
13.000 |
A seal under the axis ring so that no oil leaks. |
|
October |
16.500 |
Bracket plate screws provided with sealant, so the screws do not loosen and no oil leaks around the threads. |
|
January |
18.200 |
Gear spring changed so that less force is required when changing gear. This is also called soft index. |
|
February |
21.000 |
Axis ring gets 5 instead of 6 screws. This makes it easier to replace the cable in the internal switch mechanism. |
|
Mid |
|
Plastic seal replaced with a metal ring - better sealing of the hub. |
|
October |
25.500 |
O-ring under the screw of the gear box – no longer vibrates loose and is easy to turn by hand.. |
|
End |
43.000 |
Spoke holes changed from 2.5 to 2.7mm. This makes it easier to stick the spokes into the hub. |
|
Summer |
45.000 |
Cover screws are fastened with Loctite. This prevents loosening of the hub casing when used with disc brakes. |
|
Spring |
n.v.t. |
Gear Cable Easy Set, easier replacement of the 0.9 mm cable in the internal gear shifting mechanism. |
|
Spring |
60.000 |
Screw threads of the sprockets are changed. This makes it easier to loosen the screws during replacements. |
|
Mid |
|
The arrow on the gear shifter is indicated in silver, making it more visible. |
|
Sept 2007 |
±76.000 |
The serial number is laser cut instead of just a sticker. The newest hub to leave in September had serial number 76,728 and was lasered. |
|
Jan 2008 |
±80.000 |
The black sticker on the Rohloff hub is no longer used and has been replaced by a lasered Rohloff name. I think it looks a bit more chic. It may take a while before this is also done on the bikes themselves. |
|
Sept 2008 |
100.000 |
The hundred thousandth Rohloff hub is a reality. Sometime in 2009 the first bikes will be delivered with a serial number above one hundred thousand. Also, the red colour is replaced by red anodizing. The previous red colour flaked off over time ;-) |
Oh yes, every Friday afternoon I can be found in our showroom and I can tell you everything about our Santos bikes and Rohloff hubs. You are most welcome.
The cappuccino and the M&M's are ready.
Robbert
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Copyright Santos Bikes and De Vakantiefietser
Thanks to Eric Schuit of de Vakantiefietser (an enthusiastic Santos dealer)
Santos met riemaandrijving
Op de Fiets & Wandelbeurs was de Santos met riemaandrijving de meest geteste fiets. Ben je niet aan de beurt geweest? (de rij was soms erg lang) Kom dan eens naar ons toe en maak een proefrit op deze licht lopende en onderhoudsvrije fiets. Elke vrijdag middag is de Santos showroom speciaal daarvoor geopend. Dan kun je gelijk zien hoe al die Santossen gemaakt worden. Ga voor meer info over de Santos riem-aandrijving naar de riempagina.
Riemaandrijving fietsen online
De nieuwste Santos Travelmasters, Trekking fietsen en mountainbikes met riem-aandrijving staan inmiddels op de website. In 4 stappen stel je je eigen persoonlijke fiets samen. Ga daarvoor naar de pagina KIES JE FIETS.
stap 1) kies nu het fiets type
stap 2) kies nu het frame type
stap 3) kies nu voor de variant Custombuilt Riemaandrijving-Rohloff.
stap 4) de samenstelling die je nu zet is een voorbeeld. Verder kun je met de opties je fiets helemaal naar jouw wensen aanpassen zodat die perfect bij jou past.
En kom je er niet uit, geen probleem. Neem dan contact op met een van onze dealers of Santos direct (0252-426123 van 10-17 uur).